
ÌęElizabeth Carter, assistant professor of political science, at South Street & Vine wine shop in Portsmouth, N.H. Photo Credit: Perry Smith Photography
âTis the season for planning holiday parties, and as you make your shopping list and check it twice, itâs also worth thinking about why youâre choosing a particular wine, cheese or other seasonal treat. Are you the sort of host who springs for the most expensive wine to serve with dinner? Do you gravitate toward fresh ingredients when preparing a holiday meal? Or do you entertain using whatever is available most cheaply and easily?
For Elizabeth Carter, assistant professor of political science and coordinator for the sustainability politics and policy certificate program, those choices each say something about us â and how and why food and drink make it to our tables. Carterâs research focuses on the politics, sociology and economics behind food, as well as fashion and music. That diverse array of influences is most apparent when it comes to wine. Whether itâs being served at a party or given as a gift, each bottle of wine carries with it a complex economic, social and political story.
Imagine for a moment that youâre deciding between two bottles of chardonnay, one from France and one from Californiaâs Napa Valley. Though theyâre the same kind of wine, the differences in production and distribution are pronounced.
For French winemakers, âevery single thing about the production process is regulated,â says Carter, who studied wine markets in France and Italy. Winemakers in certain regions are allowed only to make certain wines with certain grapes. As Carter explains, when the 2004 film âSidewaysâ sent novice wine drinkers in search of pinot noir, it was a boon for winemakers in Burgundy, but producers in Bordeaux and other regions couldnât make pinot noir and respond to the demand. There are no such regulations in the U.S. âYou can plant any grape you want and blend it in any way you want,â Carter says. There are some restrictions â a wine made in New Hampshire canât call itself a Napa Valley wine, for example â but otherwise, winemakers are free to make whatever wine they want.
French regulations allow growers who provide the grapes, producers who make the wine and wine merchants to evenly share economic power â and a stake in the final product. Everyone bands together under a shared brand. And thatâs when the economics of the wine market blend with sociology, Carter says.
Enter terroir: the idea that climate, soil, topography and dozens of other characteristics all impart a unique flavor and taste to each wine. âThereâs this idea about a âdream of the land,ââ Carter says. âIf you drink a Bordeaux from 1945, then in that moment, you are in Bordeaux in 1945. Thereâs some kind of magical quality that can be represented by the wine.â This idea, coupled with the fact that the French model naturally limits how much wine producers can make, transforms French wines into a status symbol. Drinking the ârightâ wine shows someone is âa person of culture and education,â according to Carter. And that makes the wine more expensive.
Even in the U.S., where the lack of regulations gives producers more latitude, pricing and status go hand in hand.
âYou determine prices often by what another producer charges,â Carter says. âSo if I think my wines are a little better than someone elseâs, Iâll price it a few dollars higher to signal that.â
But buying wine and other foods based on price alone wonât always guarantee quality. Carter points to olive oil as an example. Many oils labeled as âItalian extra virgin olive oilâ are ânot Italian, not extra virgin and not made from olives,â according to Carter. âThose olives do not need to have come from Italy to say that the oil is Italian on the label â there just needs to have been one phase of production in Italy. Itâs usually a blend of different oils,â Carter says.
Whatâs a host to do when confronted with these choices? How does a foodie get the best possible ingredients? For Carter, the answer is twofold. As more communities embraceÌęÌęmovement and emphasize buying locally, consumers are positioned to become better educated about where their food comes from, whatâs in it and whoâs making it. And as consumers become more invested in this knowledge, Carter says farmers and other producers have more incentive to band together â not unlike the French winemakers. All of those factors take a backseat when it comes to individual taste, but even that is shaped by culture, class and other attributes.
In the end, Carter says, âyou like what you like.â Whatever you choose might make for a fascinating conversation after dinner â just make sure youâre serving the right dessert.
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Written By:
Larry Clow '12G | UNH Cooperative Extension